dinsdag 16 juni 2009


Periodization probably works really well for a lot of people, but I can't really work with it. I seem to prefer 'shortterm small succeses' above 'longterm big succeses'. Let's say 'I focus on my microcycle and don't think about a macrocycle'.
My lack of periodization is probably one of the reasons why I don't climb that hard (yet ;)). Although I must admit my approach towards climbing has changed in the last two years.
One of the issues with my approach is that I don't take enough rest (I hate restdays). Unfortunately this means that every now and again I'm run down. Which is exactly what happened the last two weeks.
Fortunately Andy knows when I'm run down and he is the only one who can make me take a restday. So, he 'made' me take two restdays back to back, which did the trick. My restdays payed of straight away, as I did Worldline first go when I pulled on it again on Sunday and it felt piss this time.
I might try a 'bit of periodization' after South-Africa, see where it gets me ;)).

Worldline (Queens)

donderdag 28 mei 2009

Last couple of months

Every now and again I realise more than ever (if that is that actually possible), that I'm very lucky with the life I'm living. I think I would be quite jealous of my life if I wasn't me. Does that make sense? Not a lot of (Dutch) people have: quality rock within an hour drive from their house, handmade vegan climbing shoes, and enough spare time (and money) to be able to climb outside, open new climbing area's and climb abroad. Or at least I know I didn't had all of the above before I moved to England, but now I do.
I know I've not blogged for months, but that doesn't mean I've been sitting still: I've been climbing on the quality rock near our house, I've been climbing abroad and I have even helped opening a new area.
Andy on Specter in Bishop (California)

Check out my new Scarpa shoes (on a very odd and hardish problem in the Happies)

Me on a 7a(+) in the Happies (California)

Red Rocks, Las Vegas. A long long power endurence 7b(+) traverse

An awesome problem in the Red Rocks (8a from sitting, 7a+ from standing)
Andy powering through the moves on La Baleine (Font). Very impressive he could hold the slopers on such hot day.
Great arete in Font (so hot that day)

A pic of our weekly route setting @ Climb Newcastle
A great boulder problems @ Kyloe out (Prime Time SS, 7b+)
A powerfull roof @ Kyloe out (7a/+)

One of the harder problems on Blakely's Bloc, about 7b(+). Finished the last and hardest problem on
this blog (the right arete SS) 2 days ago

Fonz, being as gorgeous and girl-like as ever.
What a life :))